diff --git a/README.org b/README.org
index 85270f1..a291cc1 100644
--- a/README.org
+++ b/README.org
@@ -137,8 +137,6 @@ Preis vom Filament für die gesamte Tastatur + Case + Tiltkit auf ca 10 € runt
 
 *Gesamt:* jeweils ca. 10 €
 
-
-
 * Build Instructions
 
 ** Required Tools
@@ -180,7 +178,7 @@ Check if you have all required parts from the BOM.
 
 ** Ensure Microcontroller Functionality
 
-- Flash the snappy v3_5 QMK firmware onto both MCs
+- Flash the snappy v3_5 QMK firmware onto both microcontrollers (MCs)
   - https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware
 - Check with ~lsusb~ if there is a device ~cafe:1337 phga snappy v3.5~
 - Take some tweezers or a wire and try to activate some keys
@@ -202,7 +200,7 @@ Check if you have all required parts from the BOM.
 
 [[file:assets/instructions/002_top_halves.png]]
 
-- Place the top plates onto the bottoms halves with the hotswap sockets
+- Place the top plates onto the bottom halves with the hotswap sockets
 - Insert all keyswitches through the top plate into the hotswap sockets
   - Be mindful because the pins on the keyswitch easily bend
   - The silver pin usually is a bit more rigid than the bronze one (try using the silver
@@ -227,7 +225,6 @@ Check if you have all required parts from the BOM.
 
 - Standard range: 315-380°C for hand soldering
   - Enameled wire: 370-400°C (to burn through the enamel coating)
-- Starting point: 260°C, adjust as needed
 - Lead-free solder: Requires higher temperatures around 260°C
 - Contact time: 2-5s, adjust as needed
 - Cold/Bad Joints: Dull, whitish, frosted appearance
@@ -240,6 +237,7 @@ Check if you have all required parts from the BOM.
 [[file:assets/instructions/006_second_solder.png]]
 
 1. Identify which half you are soldering right now
+   - If the OLED-cutout is on the left, you are soldering the right side & vise versa
    - The cutout for the the OLED-display marks the column to start with
 2. Put a bit of solder onto the connector of the hotswap socket that is on the same side
    as the OLED-cutout of this half (when looking at it from the top)
@@ -254,7 +252,7 @@ Check if you have all required parts from the BOM.
 
 [[file:assets/instructions/007_solder_right.png]]
 
-- *Right side* (OLED-cutout on the left)
+- *Right side* (OLED-cutout on the left, from your current back-to-front view)
   - The last two hotswap sockets in the first row MUST be connected like this to leave
     enough space for the TRRS jack
 
@@ -304,8 +302,7 @@ You'll need the *15cm enameled wire pieces* for this step
 
 [[file:assets/instructions/011_row_connections.png]]
 
-- Solder one end of each wire to each "intersection" of each row and the first column on
-  the side of the OLED-cutout
+- For each row: solder one end of a wire to the intersection point of the diodes next to the first column (the one underneath the OLED-cutout)
   - Make sure to solder on the cathode side (with black mark) of the first diode
   - Make sure that you do not destroy the connection of the row itself
   - It is easier to first wrap the wire around the intersection and then solder
@@ -385,7 +382,7 @@ You'll need the *10cm & 20cm enameled wire pieces* for this step
     its cutout
 
 *Start to solder all wires to the micro controller*
-- When in doupt, ask for help when soldering the MC, if the MC is fried, we cant reverse it
+- When in doubt, ask for help when soldering the MC, if the MC is fried, we cant reverse it
 - Make sure to place the tip of the soldering iron:
   - on the metal of the microcontroller pin
   - touch the wire at the same time
@@ -420,6 +417,7 @@ You'll need the *10cm & 20cm enameled wire pieces* for this step
 *If you did everything correctly, you should now have a "working" Snappy (:*
 
 [[file:assets/instructions/019_done.png]]
+
 * Additional Resources
 
 - For another visualization of the liatris pins see:
diff --git a/assets/instructions/012_after_col_row.png b/assets/instructions/012_after_col_row.png
index a43aa1b..51f1ae0 100644
Binary files a/assets/instructions/012_after_col_row.png and b/assets/instructions/012_after_col_row.png differ